Round oh-two of big surf days at the Wedge in Newport on September 1st, 2011.
OK. I’m going to say conservatively that from the tip of that boarder’s fin to the tip of his board is seven feet. Pick that little guy up and you can easily get three of him which is a 20’+ face…
Crash landing and a quick prayer to the Wedge gods below that the falls don’t bring him back over. Probably a worthless prayer. He’s goin’ over.
Look at that frosty monster spitting this guy out. Epic!
Crunch!
This wave scares the heck out of me… look at that cloudy fury behind this guy… dang…
As the tide rose, the slapbacks got better and better…
All eyes were on this guy as he washed in… he was out surfing when blackball was up which is a no-no… he went for a wave, caught it, wiped out, his board washed up, the lifeguards grabbed it and he strutted up like “What?!”… the crowd loved it… he got a stern something from the NB lifeguards but I think that was about it…
That’s it for now… I’m working on the last part…
